Drill a hole through your lumber in one corner of your slot. If possible, use a drill bit that matches the width of your slot. For wide slots, you may want to start with a narrower bit and work your way up to avoid splitting the wood. Drill a second hole in the opposite corner of your slot. Use the same drill bits you did for the first hole. Cutting slots in wood is often known as mortising, and it can be done with a drill press. You'll need to set up a fence guard on your drill press table to make sure you move your board straight. Attach a Forstner bit to the drill and set up the proper plunge depth. Hello Gents, I have racked my mind on how to cut a square slot in the center of a 127mm x 127mm square piece of wood. I am trying to make some piggy banks for the holiday season and needed to cut this slot in the base so that the coins may be removed once the bank is reasonably full.
I’m working on a new woodworking project that involved cutting through-slots for bolts in a couple of boards. The two boards will act as adjustable arms to hold a dowel handle for a garden cart.
I have cut shorter and narrower slots using a table-mounted router for a coin bank. These bolt slots were considerably longer and 1/4' wide so I was reluctant to use the same technique. I don’t have a plunge router – which would probably be the fastest and easiest way to do this.
After checking a couple of woodworking forums for ideas – including one where someone trying this on a router table said the board 'shattered' (yikes!) – the general consensus seemed to be todrill out most of the material and clean up the slot later with a coping saw.
That sounded good (and safe) to me.
Since my slot was only 1/4' wide, I decided best approach was to use a 1/4' Forstner bit in a drill press to define the slot and remove most of the material, then clean up the slot with a file and sandpaper.
The shaft on the 1/4' bit was larger than the bit itself so I had to flip the board over to drill all the way through the 3/4' material. It’s probably a good idea to do this anyway to avoid tear-out unless you have a backer board underneath when you’re drilling.
A COUPLE OF NOTES:
If the slots were 1/2” wide or more, I probably would have used a jigsaw and straightedge to clean up the slots before sanding.
> > Well, you could get all tooled up with a hollow chisel mortiser,
> > or all burly with a mallet and a mortising chisel,
> > but if you are more into getting the job done fisrly fast and
> > not buying fancy tools, a good sized router with a carbide bit
> > and a jig should get the job done
> This router approach is kinda what I had in mind when I asked my
> question. I suspected it was a rail-type of fence. You probably
> wouldn't have to go all the way through...just a couple of inches
> to allow the boards to be inserted and fastened.
I should have thought of that. No need to go all the way through the
posts, except that it means the slots are automatically aligned
properly.
I have a floor-standing drill press with a cross-slide vice, I also have
a relatively large router - but no router table. It would be more of a
hassle to set the router up to do these posts vs the drill press.
I suppose I could use a router bit on the drill press.
There are also drills that cut side-ways (don't know what they're called
exactly). If these are cedar posts, I suppose it's soft enough to try
one of those drills instead of a 1' diam x 2' deep router bit.
> > Pay attention to drainage or you'll have rotted boards in
> > short order.
I've had some good experience with using PL-Premium adhesive on exposed,
outdoor wood. Seems to hold up well under intermittent water exposure,
and winter/summer temperature swings. I'm thinking that using liberal
amounts of that glue to hold the boards in the slots (and sealing up the
slots in the process) might be the way to go. Yes?